Found with equipment rather than guesswork, and starting with the question that matters on this ground: is the water escaping, or is it arriving?
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A damp patch tells you where water ended up. It says nothing at all about where it came from, and on this ground there are two quite different answers.
Water escaping is a leak. Something on your side of the meter is losing, continuously, under pressure, and it does not care what the weather is doing.
Water arriving is the other one, and it is common here. The town centre sits in a depression on the Terrys Creek floodplain and water crossing the suburb passes the rail corridor at a handful of points, so on the low ground there is a lot of water moving about in a storm. Damp that appears with the rain and fades afterwards is usually about where that water is going outside the building.
They have opposite answers. One needs a repair, the other needs gutters, downpipes and ground levels dealt with. Getting it the wrong way round is how somebody pays to open a wall that was never leaking.


The tap under the sink, or the main at the meter. Stopping the water matters more than the drive does.
A leak under pressure is constant. Damp that comes with the rain and goes afterwards is water arriving rather than escaping.
That one question saves more wasted call-outs here than anything else.
Everything off, nothing refilling, read it, wait an hour, read it again.
Movement means water is leaving your system. It costs nothing and it takes an hour.
If the meter stops moving, the loss is on the hot side.
That halves the search before anybody has been paid to look.
They fail wide open, at mains pressure, in a cupboard nobody opens.
Cheap to replace, and the most damaging thing that routinely happens in a house.
The housing here was built from the late 1940s, and pinhole failures in older copper are an end-of-life pattern rather than bad luck.
One is a repair. A run of them in different places is a different conversation.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Located to a small area with equipment, not opened on a guess.
One figure to stop it, whatever hour it happens.
Depending on where it is and what has to be reached.
The cheapest worthwhile job on this page, by a wide margin.
What was found and what caused it, which matters to an insurer.

Whether the damp tracks the rain or is there regardless. That decides whether we are looking for a leak at all.

Everything off, read, wait, read again. A number rather than an opinion.

Isolating sections, then acoustic and thermal equipment on the section that is losing.

The repair, plus what was found and what we think caused it, in writing.
Ring and a licensed plumber picks up. We will talk you through isolating it before anybody sets off.
Call 1300 381 569
The meter settles it in an hour. Turn every tap off, make sure nothing is refilling, read the meter, wait an hour and read it again. Movement means water is leaving your system. No movement, with damp appearing after rain, means water is arriving from somewhere else.
Almost certainly arriving rather than escaping. A leak under pressure does not wait for weather. Damp that tracks the rain is about where water is going outside the building: gutters, downpipes, paving levels or ground that sits against the wall.
A failed flexible hose under a sink or basin. They go without warning, wide open, at mains pressure, usually in a cupboard nobody looks in. If you cannot remember replacing yours, they are old enough to replace.
Nearly always. Acoustic and thermal equipment narrows it to a small area, and isolating sections tells us which side of the property is losing. Opening on a guess is the expensive way and it is not how we work.
Do the meter test first, because it costs nothing and it converts a suspicion into a fact. If the meter moves with everything off, water is going somewhere, and it needs locating rather than guessing.
Isolate it. The tap under the sink, the valve behind the toilet, or the main at the meter. Stopping the water is what limits the damage, and it is almost always something you can do yourself.
Leak detection is $250 to $550. A burst pipe made safe is $250 to $500. A repair after locating is $350 to $900 depending on access. Replacing flexible hoses is $150 to $300, and it is the cheapest worthwhile thing on this list.
Tell us whether the damp follows the weather, and whether the meter moves with everything off. Those two answers do most of the diagnosis before we arrive.
Located with equipment, repaired properly, and the cause put in writing.
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